October 18, 2017, 01:14:44 AM

Author Topic: Drift Tuning Guide  (Read 3372 times)

Offline Ed

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6678
  • Cool Points: -3028
  • The Wallabee Champ
Drift Tuning Guide
« on: March 14, 2010, 03:06:59 AM »

This guide was meant to coincide with out first drift tune release.  First, pic up our S14 drift tune and paint, for free in our SF.  The tune is posted in the "site exclusives" section.

BEFORE DRIFTING!  If you use a controller and manual+clutch, switch it back to the original settings... so that the hand brake is located on the A button.  Settings to use: ABS-on, Manual(no clutch), all other assists-off.

Building a Drift Ride -

Car choice - To start, RWD.  Sorry, AWD is not drifting,  It technically isn't possible in a AWD car.  Although it can be simulated to look and feel like a drift tune, it is not.  This guide will not help you with a four-wheeler anyways, lol.  I'd suggest going for a Toyota Trueno, Mazda or Nissan Silvia.  The lighter the better for noobs.  Also look for a good hp/torque ratio,  Sometimes this can only be found after an engine swap.

Horsepower - As many people have probably told you, horsepower is not needed. It's nice to have though! For just about any track, 300 - 550 HP is a comfortable amount.  The S14 posted, starts you out with 433 HP.  So its right in the middle of the range for good HP.  With high horsepower you'll have more wheel spin which can create a hard drift to control, or one that isn't reaching its potential.  When tuning a drift car, I found that it was best to find a car/engine that had a great horsepower to torque ratio.
This was the area that made me want to post the tune.  I found that when I could adjust the HP to my liking, the car felt better in my hands.  When I first started, I had a very low HP...then increased it as I got comfortable.

Weight - Weight is a very important thing in drifting, it's used to intiate a drift, keep a drift stable or to stop a drift. Underpowered cars use weight to intiate drifts using the fient technique. Heavy cars require higher horsepower to make up for the weight. The heavier the car, the harder transitioning from drift to drift will be. So aim for the Silvia's/Trueno's for starters.

Tuneable Upgrades - use em, all of em...lol

Tires - I've not adventured outside of sport tires in FM3 yet,  I'd imagine that you could use street tires if there was enough width to them.  Could also be used for a light wt/low hp tune as well.  The tire width was a big factor to me, my tunes like to slide out with ease, so I use a wider rear than front to balance that out.  I've always opted for large rim sizes and haven't had trouble with their use...

Aero/Body Kits - no Forza aero, never...lol. The rest is just what you find aesthetically pleasing.  A -4LB hood upgrade will not make or break your tune, not in the least.

Tuning Your Build -

Tire Pressure - Probably the easiest part, depending on your cars HP, tire width & grip this may vary.  I've always had my front tire pressure lower than the rear to induce oversteer. You won't be playing with the front as much as you will with the rear. The rear tire pressure can be a determining factor. The more tire pressure you have in the rear the more the car will want to spin the tires, also the tires become more responsive.

Gearing - This is the area I struggle with a bit, but a setup I've had work best for me, is a final drive from 2.5 - 3.5 depending on your horsepower. That way you can stay in 2nd on most turns with my drift and won't have to shift in the middle of the drift. If you have to shift often while drifting, go back and make some adjustments.  The S14 posted above can stay in 2nd gear for quite a while, up to 89 mph, I believe.

Alignment - From what i've gathered, negitive camber will allow the driver more speed and quicker, longer drifts, although they can be difficult to handle because of other factors like body roll and weight,  On the other hand, Positive Camber has a steadier ride and a wonderful amount of angle, but unless pulled off just right, it just doesn't work.  Most drift tuners/drivers stay away and frown upon positive camber tunes.

Toe -  It's the hardest part IMO, and should be touched on a whole lot, it affects the car greatly, but just for a beginner use some toe out in the front to have more control over your intiating of the drift & exit. Once you get going, use a "1/2 rule"... that is, if the front is 2.0...rear should be around 1.0

Caster - This also shouldn't be played with much, but if you feel your car is wobbly and unstable, add some front caster, if you feel it is too stable and stiff, decrease the caster to help turning

Roll Bars - Anti Sway bars is an easy subject to just touch on, naturally, a stiff rear end will induce oversteer while a stiff front end will induce understeer, so if you feel your car is oversteering to much, decrease the rear sway bar and vice versa. Also, I perfer using a loose sway bar setup but I reccomend starting stiff then adjusting.

Suspension - In a well powered car, you want a stiffer setup to help transition, keeping the car stable during a drift. I tune with a stiffer front and a softer rear to allow the rear of my car to roll a little in the turn. I'd imagine in underpowered cars, the suspension often should be soft to help get the weight tansfer to intiate the drift.  Suspension when it comes to drifting, is pretty much the same as the roll bars, stiffen the rear end for more of a slide, or stiffen the front for more stability. Again, start stiff then go loose... its alot easier to get a feel for it than doing it the other way around.

Ride Height - Ride height should always be pretty low, I haven't really messed with this too much.  But if you're bottoming out, raise it.

Rebound Stiffness - I didn't worry too much about this, but I usually ride with a stiffer setup as it feels more stable and in control to me.

Bump Stiffness - On my rides, I use a softer setup, so I am not affected as much by going on a bump or hitting the dirt, but under any other circumstance that can really fuck things up...lol

Downforce - NA...in my opinion.
Brakes - I usually try to move my braking bias to the front, to move the weight of the car foward so I am able to intiate a drift much easier,

Differential - Well with differential maxed out on acceleration setting, both wheels spin at the same time, if you put it lower, than the more one wheel will seize power to regain traction. But Differentials are a touchy subject, for beginners, most should use a 100% Acceleration setting and a 0% Deceleration.  But once you get going the rule of thumb I've used is a -20/-30.  That is, if the accel is at 90, the decel should be around 20 to 30 lower.

I Hope this helps.  Some of this was taken from a drifting guide posted somewhere else, I just applied it to FM3 and my tuning expirience. If your a veteran drifter, or see some mistakes in my rational or techniques.  Please share!  This was only done in an effort to get "Circuit Racers" into drifting and tuning them.  I am by no means an expirienced drift tuner, but I did my homework and spent alot of time on the track to get my tunes where they are now.